Palma is a city that rewards walking slowly. Each barri has its own character, and the difference between one street and the next can be significant.
A rough guide to some of the neighbourhoods worth knowing:
Santa Catalina. The former fishing quarter, now Palma’s most lively neighbourhood for eating and drinking. The Mercat de Santa Catalina is the real anchor — local produce, tapas bars, and a genuine morning market crowd. The streets around Carrer de Soler and Carrer Fàbrica have good independent restaurants.
La Llonja. Between the cathedral and the port. Beautiful medieval trading buildings, a handful of strong restaurants, and Palma’s best evening atmosphere. Tends to be quieter than Santa Catalina.
El Terreno. Above the waterfront towards Bellver Castle. Once Palma’s bohemian quarter — Joan Miró lived here, as did Robert Graves when in the city. It’s rougher around the edges now, but there’s a slow revival happening.
Son Espanyolet. Residential, calm, with a few good neighbourhood restaurants. This is where Palma’s younger professional crowd lives. Not a destination in itself, but a good barometer for where the city is heading.
Calatrava / Sa Gerreria. Behind the cathedral. Sa Gerreria used to be the artisan quarter and is now Palma’s gallery district. Small, walkable, good for a morning.
What’s your Palma? The neighbourhood you always come back to, or the street you discovered by getting lost?